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5-flourouracil (5-FU) A chemotherapy agent that is given as a treatment for some types of can-cer. Used as a topical peeling agent. Also known as Efudex® when used on the skin. A chemotherapy agent that is given as a treatment for some types of can-cer. Used as a topical peeling agent. Also known as Efudex® when used on the skin.
5FU pulse peeling An alternative delivery to the daily fluorouracil cream. The treatment is done with weekly Jessner's peels and a fluorouracil solution.
ablation The process by which tissue is surgically destroyed, as in removing a wart or other benign skin growth.
abrasion The loss of surface skin tissue (epidermis) due mainly to scrapes.
acetic acid A mild organic acid derived from vinegar.
acetylcholine An enzyme found in various tissues and organs, associated with muscle movement. acid mantel A thin coating on the stratum corneum that is intended to protect the skin from infection. It has a pH of 4.0 to 6.5.
Acid In skin-care terms, anything with a pH 1 to a pH 7. An acid is actually less irritating to skin than an alkalai, because normal skin already has an acidity level (or pH) between 5.5 and 6.5.
acidic Any substance that has a pH less than 7.0. actinic keratoses Precancerous lesions of the skin, generally from sunlight exposure.
acne An inflammatory disease involving the hair follicles and sebaceous glands and causing a variety of skin eruptions or pimples, usually on the face, neck, shoulders, and/or upper back; the most common variety is called acne vulgaris.
actinic Related to the sun.
ACTINIC KERATOSES a dry, scaling, patch of irritated skin (keratoses) caused by sun (actinic) damage to the skin. May be a precursor to skin cancer.
acupuncture A traditional form of Chinese medicine or medical therapy and anesthesia, using fine needles to puncture the skin at specific acupressure points along the meridians of the body.
adipose cells Fat cells.
adrenal glands Glands that secrete hormones such as cortisal. There are two adrenal glands. One sits above each kidney.
AGE SPOTS pigmented (brown) spots on the skin seen in older people. Also called "liver spots" and "sun spots". Seen most commonly on the hands and face, areas most frequently exposed to the sun. Represent the skin's attempt to protect itself from the sun by producing pigment.
aging The universal experience of change associated with the passage of time.
aging analysis An assessment that examines how aging physically presents itself in the skin, particularly, what sorts of damaging conditions to which the skin has been exposed in the past and what the results of that damage are. Aging analysis considers both intrinsic and extrinsic aging modalities.
albinism An inherited genetic condition in which an individual is unable to form melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color, resulting in unpigmented skin, hair, and eyes.
Alcohol Generally, this is a solvent that dissolves oil. However, some alcohol found in skin-care products may actually moisturize, as in the case of cetearyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol. Ethyl alcohol does not moisturize and in high concentrations will dry out the skin.
Alkaline It is the opposite of acidic and occurs when the pH is greater than 7. The higher the number, the more alkaline the substance. Soaps are alkaline (typically pH 10 to pH 11), which enables soap to remove the dirt trapped in skin, but it can also sometimes irritate skin.
allergic reaction A hypersensitive reaction in which histamine is released from mast cells, causing inflammation, redness, hives, and in severe cases, breathing problems.
alopecia areata A disease characterized by the appearance of well- defined, round, or oval bald patches on the head and on other parts of the body. The condition usually reverses itself but may require treatment.
alopecia totalis A condition that involves the loss of all scalp hair. anagen The growth phase of the hair growth cycle.
alpha hydroxy acids Mild organic acids used in cosmeceutical products. AHAs "unglue" cells in the epidermis, allowing keratinocytes to be shed at the stratum granulosum, providing skin with a healthier texture.
Amino Acids In various combinations, these acids, which are essential for life, form proteins.
anagen The growth phase of the hair follicle.
anatomy The study of the body and how its structures work in relation to one another,
anthranilates Weak UVB filters. They absorb mainly in the near UVA portion of the spectrum.
antimicrobials An agent that halts or prevents the development of microorganisms.
Antioxidants Added to products, foods, and cosmetics to stop deterioration when they are exposed to air. Some antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C, and E, slow down free radicals, which are produced by pollution, the sun, and the environment. If not stopped by antioxidants, these free radicals cause aging, by causing damage to the skin.
apocrine sweat glands The larger of the two sweat glands that are housed in axillary (under the arm), pubic, and perianal areas.
appendages Any anatomic structure that is associated with a larger structure. For the skin, its appendages include hair follicles, sweat glands, and nails.
arbutin A glycoside found in the bearberry and related plants; hydroquinone derivative.
arrector pili The muscle attached to the hair follicle, which allows the hair to respond to fluctuations in temperature and other stimuli via contraction or expansion; causes goose bumps.
arteriovenous anastomosis A connection between an artery and a vein, either because of a congenital anomaly or because of a surgically produced link between vessels that allows blood to bypass a capillary bed.
Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C, added to skin-care products as an antioxidant.
ascorbyl palmitate A fat-soluble form of ascorbic acid.
atopic dermatitis A skin irritation or rash, of unknown origin.
atrophic scars Flat, small, round, and genei-' ally inverted scars; usually seen in acne or chicken-pox scarring.
AUTOIMMUNE RESPONSE A response of the body's immune system in which the body's immune defense system attacks the host body. Rheumatoid arthritis is an example.
avascular Lacking in blood vessels and thus having a poor blood supply.
axillary Of or relating to the armpit, or axilla, the pyramid-shaped space forming the underside of the shoulder where the upper arm joins the chest.
Ayurveda Indian theory, dating back to 2500 B.C., known as the science of living. Ayurveda defines the essentials that were perceived as being necessary to health.
azelaic acid An antibacterial agent that is usually used for acne treatment. It also has shown promise in minimizing dyschromias.
bacillus Any spore-producing, rod-shaped strain of bacteria in the family Bacillaceae.
Baker-Gordon solution A phenol deep-peel solution.
basal When pertaining to the skin, the deepest layer of the epidermis (a.k.a. the stratum basale).
basal cell cancer A malignant growth of cancerous cells that may erode, crust, or bleed and that can penetrate the deeper layers of the skin (a.k.a. basal cell carcinoma); destructive locally but does not metastasize or travel in the bloodstream.
BASAL CELL CARCINOMA A skin cancer arising in the basal layer (the deep layer) of the epithelium. More common in sun exposed areas and in people with less genetically determined sun protection i.e. fair skinned individuals.
basophils A type of white blood cell. bearberry A botanical used in skin-care products and peeling agents to treat hyperpigmentation. benzophenone A chemical absorber that responds to UV light by generating a free radical capable of rapid polymerization.
Benzoyl Peroxide This anti-acne drug dries up blemishes and helps eliminate the bacteria that cause pimples. Although it is highly effective, in too strong a concentration (more than 5 percent) it can irritate skin.
beta hydroxy acid An isometrically distinct relative of alpha hydroxy acids.
beta peel A 20% or 30% salicylic acid peel solution.
bicarbonate solution Any salt containing bicarbonate anion; pH above 7.
biopsy A surgical procedure that involves the removal of a small amount of body tissue, which is then examined to determine or establish a medical diagnosis and/or estimate a prognosis.
Bisabolol The active ingredient in chamomile flowers, it is soothing to skin.
blanche To make pale by applying presure.
BLEACHING AGENTS Topical solutions which when applied to the skin, bleach or lighten brown pigmented areas.
BLEPHAROPLASTY A plastic surgical operation performed on the eyelids to remove excess skin and fat in order to restore a youthful appearance to the eyelids. Also known as eyelids "tuck".
body surface area (BSA) A term used to represent an amount when calculating the percent-age of the body burn.
BROW PTOSIS Sagging of the eyebrow.
BROWN SPOTS Brown or pigmented spots on the skin caused by sun exposure and aging. Also called age spots, liver spots, and sun spots.
bubo The origin of the name bubonic plague. A bubo (buboes, plural) is an inflamed and enlarged lymph node that appears in the axilla (armpit) or groin region.- In addition to bubonic plague, it may also indicate such diseases as chancroid or syphilis.
bulla A blister filled with fluid. A bulla is a large vesicle. carcinogen Any substance that causes cancer.
BUNNY LINES Wrinkles around the base of the nose between the eyes caused by the pull of the muscles of facial expression.
burns Thermal or electrical injuries that wound the skin.
camphors Used topically as an antiitching agent. Derived as a gum from evergreens native to China and Japan.
carbohydrates One of a group of chemical substances (including sugars) that contain only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. Common in fruits, grains, and nuts, carbohydrates are thought to be the most common chemical compounds on earth.
carbolic acid See phenol.
carbon dioxide (CO2) laser Aggressive type of laser used for skin resurfacing, which vaporizes skin and causes thermal injury, allowing for improved collagen production.
catagen The transitional phase of the hair follicle.
cautery Tissue destruction, usually done using electricity.
cellulitis A potentially serious infection of the skin.
Ceramides A structural lipid present in the outer layer of the epidermis (or stratum corneum) that helps retain water in the skin.
CHEMICAL PEEL- A procedure in which an irritant such as an acid is applied to the skin to remove the
chemoexfoliants The use of chemical agents to exfoliate the stratum corneum.
Chi (or Qi) Concept originally theorized by the Yellow Emperor of China's Han Dynasty. According to Chi, nature has a delicate balance and describes nature as an imbalance.
cholesterol A precursor to most steroid hormones; a single molecule is called alcohol. chronic A disease or occurrence showing little or no change over a long period.
cinnamates A derivative of cinnaminic acid, useful for protection against low levels of UVB rays. Also makes sunscreens waterproof.
citric acid An AHA derived from citrus fruit (oranges, grapefruit, and so forth).
clindamycin hydrochloride An antibiotic frequently used as a topical gel for the treatment of acne.
clinic protocols Any set of rules or guidelines established by a clinic to ensure safe practice. These guidelines will vary by location yet are expected to be observed by clinicians working within the individual clinic.
Clostridium botulinum The bacteria derived for Botox®.
cocamidopropyl betaine A foaming agent used in shampoos and cleansers.
Collagen The protein found in skin and cartilage, which, along with elastin, maintains the skin's elasticity, firmness, and strength.
Comedogenic A pore-blocking ingredient that can cause breakouts. Products labeled "noncomedogenic" have been tested to show that their ingredients do not block pores.
comedone A hair follicle that has been clogged with dried sebaceous and keratinous material.
condylomata acuminata An infectious wart caused by the human papilloma virus and found in genital areas.
connective tissue The connective tissue supports and binds other body tissue and body parts together. It is composed largely of collagen.
contact dermatitis A skin rash resulting from an allergic compound to which an individual has been exposed. Poison ivy or poison sumac are classic examples of contact dermatitis.
cornified Hardening or thickening of the skin. cosmeceutical Products that do more than decorate or camouflage but less than prescription drugs would do. The term was originally coined by Dr. Albert Kligman.
CORONARY ARTERY DISEASE The accumulation of fat laden plaques within the walls of the blood vessels in the heart which interrupt blood flow to the heart muscle and cause "heart attacks".
corpuscle Usually refers to a red or white blood cell of skin and hair, it refers to the middle layer of the hair shaft, which is housed between the medulla and the cuticle, the inner and outer layers of the hair shaft.
corticosteroid Any of the natural or synthetic hormones produced in the adrenal cortex, which can be used to control inflammation. Used very commonly as a medication in dermatology.
corynebacterium acnes Bacterium of the skin found in acne lesions. cosmetics Any product applied to the skin for purposes of beautification.
croton oil A fixed oil extracted from the croton plant (castor oil).
CROW'S FEET Lines around the outside corners of the eyelids which form during facial aging. They are caused by the pull of the muscles of facial expression.
cutaneous Of or pertaining to the skin.
cuticle The thin edge of tissue at the base of a nail; also the sheath of a hair follicle.
cutis The skin.
cystic acne A severe form of acne distinguished by large cysts and eventual scarring.
CYTOKINES Chemical messengers released in the body after injury to a cell. They signal the elements from the blood stream to initiate the inflammatory response.
DARK CIRCLES A shadow under the lower eyelid caused by aging changes beneath the skin. Frequently described as a "tired look".
deep peels A peel depth extending into the papillary dermis or upper reticular dermis. Most notable of deep peels are phenol.
defatted The use of isopropyl alcohol or acetone to remove all oils from the skin, which will allow peel solutions to work evenly. demographics General statistical data used to define consumer markets.
demodex folliculorum A mite that lives in the hair follicles of the face and nose.
dermabrasion A treatment to remove scars or wrinkles with diamond fraize, revolving wire brushes, or sandpaper; largely supplanted by newer technology such as laser.
dermal Pertaining to the second layer of the skin.
dermal-epidermal junction The superficial side of the dermis, connected to the epidermis. dermaplaning The use of a sharp surgical blade to exfoliate the stratum corneum.
dermatitis An inflammatory skin condition that is manifested by redness, irritation, and even blisters. Dermatitis may result from an allergen, disease, or infection.
dermatoglyphics The ridge patterns on the fingers, palms of the hands, toes, and soles of the feet. The patterns are used for purposes of identification and have some diagnostic value because certain patterns are associated with chromosomal disorders.
DERMIS The deep layer of the skin below the epidermis. Location of the collagen and elastin necessary for skin elasticity.
dermis The second layer of the skin, found right beneath the epidermis. It contains blood and lympha
desmosomes Small hairlike structures in the spiny layer of the epidermis.
detergents A synthetic cleansing agent that acts as a wetting agent and emulsifier.
No DOWN TIME PROCEDURE Term used to refer to facial rejuvenation procedures that produce minimal or no redness or discomfort and do not require a recovery period. Thus a person may have this type of procedure and return to work or other normal daily activity immediately.